Requirements for yarn quality in blank weaving

Posted 2021-05-01 DaYaoTextile

更多精彩，点击下方“ 阅读原文”查看。

 

I. Requirements for yarn quality by different fabric weaves

Due to the different fabric structure, the requirements for yarn defects and yarn defects on the fabric surface are also different. Generally speaking, in pure cotton fabrics, superfine fabrics are more demanding than medium and coarse fabrics; plain fabrics are more demanding than twill fabrics; and thin fabrics are more demanding than ordinary fabrics.

1. Requirements for yarn quality of plain weave fabrics

The density ratio of warp and weft yarns on plain weave fabrics is generally close, the fabric surface is flat, and the fabric structure is 1/1. Therefore, the yarn evenness of warp and weft yarns is higher, and the yarn evenness of staggered weft, rough warp and weft yarn is stricter.

2. poplin fabric

Poplin fabric has high warp density and low weft density, and its warp floating point is granular, and its fabric structure is 1/1. It requires high warp strength and strict weft evenness, slub and neps.

3. twill fabric

The twill fabric has compact weave, high warp density, low weft density, stiff body and clear twill pattern. The weave has 2/1, 3/1 and 2/2. It requires higher strength and evenness of warp yarn and more stringent evenness and neps of weft yarn.

4. satin fabric

1) The front of Zhigong Zhigong fabric is mainly formed by warp yarn. There are usually five three-flying yarn Zhigong and five two-Flying yarn Zhigong. The cloth surface is thick, and the cloth surface has tight twill effect. Some of the five three-flying yarn Zhigong still have soft and smooth requirements. The fabric has 5/3 and 5/2 warp Satin weave. The main feature of Zhigong fabric is that most warp yarns appear on the front of the fabric, and the warp yarn quality requirements are higher (such as tight warp, loose warp, neps, hundred feet, etc.).

2) The front of Henggong Henggong fabric is mainly formed by weft yarn. The fabric is soft and smooth like silk. Fabric weave is 5/3 weft satin. The main feature of Henggong is that most weft yarns appear on the front of the cloth, and the quality of weft yarns is required to be high (such as neps, weft shrinkage, etc.).

5. extra fine fabrics

Ultra-fine fabrics refer to fabrics with warp and weft less than 10 tex (60 or more) and most of them are combed cotton yarns. Most of the fabrics are high-grade products. Because of the finer yarn and the higher requirement of fabric quality, yarn defects such as roving, slub, evenness, neps, oil yarn, color yarn and coal ash yarn are strictly required.

6. rarefied fabrics

Thin fabrics are fabrics whose warp and weft alignment tightness are below 50%, especially those whose weft alignment tightness is below 45%. Due to the sparse density of warp and weft yarns, various defects appear on the fabric surface with a high rate, especially weft defects, such as evenness, thick weft, slub, etc., which are more prominent.

7. yarn dyed fabric

1) Mi Tong Fabric: Mi Tong Fabric is usually woven by a coloured yarn and a white yarn (or two warp yarns of different colours) in the warp direction, and also by a coloured yarn and a white yarn (or two warp and weft yarns of different colours).

Because of the weaving characteristics of Mitong fabric, yarn defects are exposed obviously on the fabric surface, and the yarn used for evenness, hairiness and neps are highly demanded.

2) Youth cloth: Youth cloth is usually woven from a dyed yarn in the warp direction and a white yarn in the weft direction, and the warp and weft yarns are of the same thickness.

Youth cloth is similar to Mitong cloth. Because yarn defects are exposed obviously, neps of yarn are demanded highly.

8. Polyester-cotton/cotton-polyester interwoven fabrics

Cotton-polyester/polyester-cotton interwoven fabrics have uniform yarn evenness, strong contrast with cotton yarn evenness, and prominent yarn defects. Especially in single dyeing, the requirements for twist, neps, evenness and hairiness of cotton yarn are very high.

2. Requirements for yarn quality without weaving tightness

Due to the difference of fabric structure, the fabric tightness of different weaves will also be different. Different weaving tightness will require different yarn quality.

According to the size of fabric tightness to judge the degree of difficulty in weaving fabric:

Tightness = warp density / warp count + weft density / weft count

It's difficult for plain 1/1 to exceed 38

Twist 2/1 over 42 is difficult

Yarn card and double-sided inclined 2/23/1 over 45 are difficult

Gongsatin 4/1 over 47 is difficult

Difficult fabrics should be woven with strong yarns, and reeds with three reeds and four reeds can be used for dense fabrics.

3. Requirements for yarn quality in different dyeing and printing processes

1. bleaching blank

After bleaching, the fabric surface is clear and white, so the remaining defects on the fabric surface are easier to show, especially some oil and colored defects (such as slub, oil gauze, oil gauze, color yarn, coal ash yarn, three silk yarns and heterosexual fibers) must be paid special attention to. Because of its high whiteness, chemical fiber blended and pure textile products have higher requirements for the above defects.

2. printing blank

Printing blanks can be roughly divided into two categories: dye-based printing and white-based printing. Because of the color pattern on the fabric surface, the dyeing bottom printing can cover up the general oil stain, color yarn, oil yarn, coal ash yarn, evenness yarn and some weaving defects on the grey fabric surface; because the fabric surface is relatively white, the requirements for the above yarn defects are more stringent, sometimes even equivalent to the bleached blank.

3. dyed blank

The dyed blanks are divided into two categories: light-colored blanks and dark-colored blanks. Because of the lighter color, light-colored billet has higher requirement for oil stain, color yarn, oil yarn, coal ash yarn, three-filament yarn and heterosexual fibre yarn; dark-colored billet has deeper dyeing, and has better cover-up for color yarn, oil yarn, coal ash yarn, uneven yarn evenness, but higher requirement for snakeskin yarn, NEP yarn, dead cotton yarn and so on.

 Conclusion: There is no absolute difference between yarn and yarn. Proper yarn weaves suitable cloth. Only in this way can we make the best use of the goods, not only does it not cause excessive quality, but also can it meet the basic needs of customers for products.

单词小课堂

density：[ˈdensəti] 

密度;稠密，浓厚;[物]浓度，比重;愚钝

alignment：[əˈlaɪnmənt]  

结盟;队列，排成直线;校直，调整;[工]准线

characteristic： [ˌkærəktəˈrɪstɪk]  

特有的;独特的;表示特性的;显示…的特征的

tightness： [taɪtnəs] 

密封性;坚固，紧密;紧致

equivalent：[ɪˈkwɪvələnt] 

相等的，相当的，等效的;等价的，等积的;[化学]当量的

一、不同织物组织对于纱线质量的要求

   由于织物组织结构的不同，对于用于织造的纱线的纱疵和纱疵在布面上的显现率的要求也不尽相同。一般来说，纯棉织物中，特细织物比中粗织物要求要高；平纹织物比斜纹织物要求较高；稀薄织物比一般织物要求较高。

   1.平纹织物对于纱线质量的要求

   平纹织物布面经纬纱密度比例一般比较接近，布面平整，织物组织1/1，所以对于经纬纱的条干要求较高，其中对于错纬、粗经和纬纱的条干不匀要求较严。

   2.府绸织物

   府绸织物布面经密高、纬密低，布面经纱浮点呈颗粒状，织物组织1/1。它对经纱强力要求较高，对纬纱条干、竹节和棉结要求较严。

   3.斜纹织物

   斜纹织物组织紧密，经密高，纬密低，布身挺，斜纹纹路清晰，织物组织有2/1，3/1和2/2。它对经纱的强力和条干要求较高，对纬纱的条干和棉结要求较严。

   4.贡缎织物

   1)直贡 直贡织物的正面主要由经纱形成，常有五枚三飞纱直贡和五枚二飞纱直贡两种，布面厚实，布面有紧斜纹效应五枚三飞纱直贡有些尚有柔软和光滑的要求。织物组织有5/3、5/2经面缎纹。直贡织物的主要特点是大多数经纱显现于布的正面，对经纱质量要求较高（如紧经、松经、棉结、百脚等疵点要少）。

   2)横贡 横贡织物的正面主要由纬纱形成，布身柔软，光洁似绸。织物组织是5/3纬面缎纹。横贡的主要特点是大多数纬纱显现于布的正面，对纬纱质量要求较高（如棉结、纬缩等疵点要少）。

   5.特细织物

   特细织物是指织物经、纬均在10tex以下（60英支及以上）的织物，且大多数为精梳棉纱，其织物大都属高档产品。由于纱线较细，织物质量要求较高，因此对粗纱、竹节、条干、棉结、油纱、色纱和煤灰纱等纱疵要求极严。

   6.稀薄织物

   稀薄织物是指织物的经纱排列紧度和纬纱排列紧度均在50%以下，尤其是纬纱的排列紧度在45%及以下的织物。由于经纬纱密度稀，各种疵点在布面上显现率高，尤其是纬向的疵点，如条干、粗纬、竹节等，更为突出。

   7.色织织物

   1)米通布：米通布通常是经向一根色纱和一根白纱（或者两根不同颜色的经纱）织成的布，也有经向和纬向都是由一根色纱和一根白纱（或者两根不同颜色的经纬纱）织造而成的。

   米通布由于其织造的特点，纱疵在布面暴露明显，对于所用纱线的条干、毛羽和棉结要求都很高；

   2)青年布：青年布通常由经向一根色纱，纬向一根白纱织成，经纬纱同样粗细。

   青年布与米通布类似，由于纱疵暴露明显，对于纱线的棉结要求高。

   8.涤棉/棉涤交织织物

   棉涤/涤棉交织织物由于涤长丝的条干均一，与棉纱条干对比强烈，纱疵暴露突出，尤其是做单染时，对于棉纱的捻度、棉结、条干、毛羽要求都很高。

   二、不用织造紧度对于纱线质量的要求

   由于织物组织结构的差异，不同组织织物的织造紧度也会存在差异。织造紧度的不同则会对纱线的质量提出不同的要求。

   根据织物紧度的大小判断织物织造的难易程度：

   紧度=经密/√经纱支+纬密/√纬纱支

   平纹 1/1 超过38有难度

   斜纹 2/1 超过42有难度

   纱卡和双面斜 2/2 3/1 超过45有难度

   贡缎 4/1 超过47有难度

   有难度的织物上机要用强力好的纱，密度大的可用三入筘和四入筘。

   三、不同印染加工对于纱线质量的要求

1.漂白坯

   坯布经漂白后，布面清晰洁白，所以在布面上残留的疵点更易显现，尤其是一些油类、有色疵点（如竹节、油花纱、油纱、色纱、煤灰纱、“三丝”和异性纤维等）必须特别注意。化纤混纺、纯纺产品，因其本身白度较高，所以对上述疵点要求更高。

   2.印花坯

   印花坯大致分为染底印花和白底印花两大类。染底印花由于布面上印染的色泽图案的缘故，对于坯布表面的一般性油污、色纱、油纱、煤灰纱、条干不匀等纱疵和一些织疵可有所掩盖；白底印花由于布面露白相对较多，对于上述纱疵要求较严，有时甚至要求与漂白坯相当。

   3.染色坯

   染色坯分为浅色坯和深色坯两大类。浅色坯由于颜色较浅，对于布面的油污，色纱、油纱、煤灰纱、“三丝”和异性纤维等纱疵要求较高；深色坯染色较深，对于色纱、油纱、煤灰纱、条干不匀等纱疵掩盖性强，但对于蛇皮丝、棉结、死棉等纱疵要求较高。

   结语：纱线没有绝对的好坏之分，合适的纱织合适的布，这样才能做到物尽其用，既不造成质量过剩，也能够很好地满足客户对于产品的基本需求。

▼

更多精彩推荐，请关注我们

▼

把时间交给阅读